Re-Born.......................again!

You might be excused for thinking you were looking at a Silhouette Mk 2!

(the cabin front is just a rough template at this stage)

Using templates

I really do find the use of templates is a massive help. I use cheap thin ply, hardboard or whatever I can get my hands on.

I just fiddle around with it until I get it absolutely right then use it as a guide for cutting out the more expensive marine ply.

If I get the template wrong I just set it aside for use on a smaller job and start again!

Here, I'm using some thin ply for fabricating the starboard cockpit coamings. As I found with the large Hull templates, they're not symmetrical, so a little "creative adjustment" is required!

Starboard Cabin Side

The starboard cabin side (complete with new window) is now complete and tacked into place. Next step will be to prepare the cockpit coaming as per the port side.

Fitting the windows

It's important to pilot-drill all the srcrew holes with a very fine drill, taking care not to go all the way through. I used 2.0mm for the job. This prevents the wood from splitting when you put the screw in. It also gives the screw a good true guide to follow which is important when using large dome-headed screws.

I found that if you put four "key" screws in first it holds the Perspex to enable you to drill all the other holes without fear of slippage.

Great care and patience was called for here!

Cabin window

The port cabin window is now fitted. It will be re-seated onto a bead of silicone after the cabin etc get varnished.

It's important not to tighten the screws fully down onto the wood once the sealant is in place. This could cause the Perspex to shatter around the screw holes when the boat flexes.

Steady As She Goes!

It takes a steady hand and a keen eye when cutting out for the windows. One slip and the whole cabin side is written off..................

Let's not get carried away...............

Things are looking good now and it's so easy to head off in several different directions (I learnt this early on!).

Once I've sorted out the starboard cabin side and coaming, I dismantle everything and have a dedicated glueing session.

This means I'm not messing about mixing small quantities of glue and I don't get so far ahead that I forget things.

Takes a lot of discipline though...............................

Double Thickness

As per the original plans, the cockpit coamings are double the thickness of the cabin sides i.e. 18mm. I made up an exact template of very thin cheap grade ply and used this to cut the two coamings exactly to size.

They'll be laminated together in-situ to hold their shape. I've left the after ends a bit long as they'll need to be trimmed to fit the rear coaming.

Coamings

Everything went according to plan today. I got the port side decks cut to shape and tacked on. I also realised after studying the plans that I had to fit the cabin side and coaming before working out the next bulkhead/cabin rear.

I'm quite pleased with how it turned out.

A bit more Boat-Shaped!

Finally it looks as though things are starting to look a bit more boat shaped again. It's funny how, after all the feelings of dismay and thoughts of giving up, there's a massive light at the end of the tunnel.

I can definately begin to see the fruits of my labour now.....................

Starboard Side Deck

Today I also cut out the starboard side deck and tacked it in place. It still has to be glued and filled, but it looks so much more complete already. Tomorrow I'll attack the port side.

New Bridge-Deck

I got he cockpit floorboards finished today. All that remains is to fit four brass lift-rings for access to the stowage beneath. (and paint of course).

I also fitted the new Bridge-Deck. I've still got to adjust the ends once the coamings go on, but as you can see from the picture it'll look great when it's varnished up.

I used 12mm ply for the floorboards and they remain a loose fit to allow easy access to the cockpit bilge/stowage space.

For the Bridge-Deck I cut a piece of 9mm ply out of the same sheet as the bulkhead. This will be glued and tacked into place.

Cockpit Floor

I got the cockpit framing finished tonight. I also fitted the framing for the flooring. It's really taking shape now.

Fresh Paint

I had some time to kill, so I took the opportunity to slap a coat of primer on the exposed new wood. This will afford it some protection now. I was getting a bit mouldy and grubby!

I also got a first coat of bilge paint in the cockpit area before the floor goes in.

Glassy Finish!

Finished varnishing the mast today. With a little bit of effort and lots of preparation you can achieve an excellent finish.

It's worth removing all fittings if possible as this gives a more even coat and protects the wood under the fittings.

I applied 3 coats of professional grade varnish, leaving each coat at least overnight. I rubbed each coat down with very fine sand paper and cleaned it off with white spirit before applying the next coat.

I found it very therapuitc, and if you get the preparation right, you get a fantastic result.......

Bridge Deck Framing

I've put the framing for the Bridge Deck in place. It will need to be glued and the bulkhead top shaved flush.

The forward Bridge Deck frame will match the slight camber of the aft frame once the next bulkhead goes on and gets screwed to it.

Cockpit Framing

I've made a start on the framing for the cockpit lockers. I had some lengths of oak 1" x 1" in the shed and they're absolutely perfect for this job.

The cockpit area will look so much better when it's got a coat of paint/varnish on it and the lockers are in place.